FASHION TRENDS, PRODUCTION PROCESS AND USAGE OF ASO-OKE IN YORUBA LAND

Abstract

This study investigates the evolving production practices and socio-cultural usage of Aso-Oke, a hand-woven textile central to Yorùbá identity in southwestern Nigeria. Through visual ethnography and field interviews conducted in Oyo and Iseyin in 2021, data were collected via 24 photographic records and semi-structured interviews with 12 master weavers (8 male, 4 female; aged 28-72). Thematic analysis revealed three key trends: (1) significant material substitution - synthetic threads (e.g., Lurex) and dyes now supplement or replace traditional cotton, silk, and indigo; (2) continuity in core weaving techniques despite technological shifts; and (3) resilient ceremonial demand that is expanding beyond elite contexts to include birthdays, naming ceremonies, and modern weddings. While the classical types - Etu, Sanyan, and Alaari - retain symbolic prestige, their production increasingly blends heritage with market-driven innovation. The study concludes that Aso-Oke’s survival hinges on balancing authenticity with functional adaptation. Recommendations include revitalising local cotton farming, supporting design innovation, and integrating Aso-Oke into national cultural and educational policy.